The Mountain Man. Pablo Zelaya Huerta
Aconcagua like other projects meant a goal, once exceeded, you feel you can do more. Without disrespecting you today, it is my field of work and I look at it as the first day, its great beauty invites you to climb it in its other ways, or at least try them. I am always interested in continuing to explore.
What does climbing Aconcagua mean to you; since these, how many times did you do it? and of them what do you think was your best performance. I climbed 23 times, alone and with clients. My best performance was when I raised 24 hours. from its base, accompanying the Espera por la Vida foundation, who seek to raise awareness of the donation of Medula Bone, I proposed why not! Upload Aconcagua fast and shoot the message. From there it went up. That year I prepared a lot in height, I trained powers with slopes and speed above 4500 m and 5 thousand; in 5 days I put 5 mountains of 5 thousand meters, I was turbocharged,
comfortable and light.It was going out at sunset and the next day at noon it was already down again. It was intense, I was very charged, without any portage to load me, to the bag and heater for the doubts, that weighs me a lot, but I sustained what was promised, arrive and get off in 24 hours. Incredible experience. I was able to overcome and improve. Europe, have you been, what do the peaks on those sides mean to you? I had never been, I lived in the United States, but I never thought of Europe, after Everest in 2016 I was invited to Switzerland and France. I managed to mount two emblematic mountains in less than a week. Mont Blanc in 9 hours from its base in Chamonix, France and Matterhorn in Switzerland, try climbing only for the first time, it was a climbing-free maze.
I ended up going out on the North Glacier and the patrol telling me to run the route I was exposed. Thanks to Mendyhnos, I hung the Argentine strings and slipped off with a screw I had (I only had two) and returned to the original edge. I tried again to go out to the shelter and a storm caught me. I had to abort and leave the climb.
I left the ascent eager to return. It is only a little complex, you go free and of the 1400 m high I can climb 800 m, it is truly exposed. (You are suspended in nothing, you look down and do not believe how small things are seen below. Climbing should be objective, if you ask yourself the question, it becomes subjective and it is time to get off, that's where the incidents come, time to return home to see the children). In the old continent there are no heights, for me it is a toy store, an amusement park say, where you have everything nearby, many peaks, corners and diversity to technically propose a challenge, with lots of oxygen and light. You should not load bags or so many materials. It is a paradise of technicality. I always read about chamonix, switzerland and being there completed me.Everest:
how do you climb the highest peak on the planet? Anecdotes, if you have any. Everest, "where the Andes end, the Himalayas begin." Something so great, since you have the idea to project it. As an Argentine, it is very difficult, beyond sports, to get the money that comes as a tourist together, it is almost incalculable. So, taking advantage of my previous experiences, I encouraged myself to a 40-day Everest without oxygen. It was the bicentennial 2016 in Argentina and I decided to go up without services, without guides, without Sherpas and oxygen through Tibet (even without food). Although the most comfortable normal route has its southern face in Nepal, I decided not to lose days and in a short time be 8 thousand meters, leave material up and sleep and go down to stock up. It is here, that: I only brought 10,000 dollars for everything, a single Yak and meals for 35 days. I ran out of food 15 days before, (thanks to 7 Summit Club the Russians fed me for free and I continued). An expedition is from 40 to 120 thousand dollars that the Russians usually pay to any rag to ascend it (with oxygen, sherpas, armed tents, served meals, all people arrive) is like walking at 6500 m, a walk. But when you pose a challenge, the mountain is true, real and only you with your ideas and temperance. I set up a store at 5300 m at its Chinese base, where I jogged every 10 days for about 10 km to acclimatize, then I moved to the advanced base from there at 6400 m, I left another armed shop and went down to feed myself, climbed up again and stayed 20 days to mount a camp at 7200 m. From there I carried material at 8300 m where I left a shop. I went down to the advanced base, a friend had cerebral edema and decided to lower it to the lower base of 5300 m. I took 5 days to feed and rest, it was day 35 and I went up to wait for the window of good weather to try to climb. The day of movement arrived, I went to 7200 m, I slept that night, when I moved to 8300 m the store was no longer, flew, I went down to rest at 7200 m, the other store was broken, so I had to bivouac and froze arms and legs, I lost heater, coats, etc. Spending the nights at -52 with basic equipment at 7200 m was torture. I got up at dawn and got into a Chinese store, they invited me tea and I couldn't recover the heat, so I decided to move, I hung up on the glacier to get off the hook and go down to the advanced field. There I recovered my fingers, hands and could rest. Thinking what to do? It was all money, an extra store, more meals and rest. I didn't have the opportunities. So it was my attempt to climb. With all the bitter taste of getting off and thinking about later, I went down to 5300 m while in camp together with a doctor from Mexico and his team, Luis Alvarez, an elite athlete Iroman Guines, who climbed up with services , saying that the guide had abandoned him at 8300 m, his oxygen was about to run out and he didn't have to hydrate. I downstairs while eating noodles, thinking what to do? It was Everest, not a 6 thousand. He had no strength or extra meals. I had already lost a friend in 2011, so another friend did not want to lose and the feeling was horrible, I held the handie and just told him, tomorrow I will be there with people and we will get you down. Luis was not alone, he was with him, Ara an Armenian, who lives in France. Both were blind with blindness generated because they didn't know about beginners, that when you take off your glasses, the sun is more intense and you burn your retinas. You have no UV protection at 8000 m. (I always say, in altitud the, ignorance kills you). Then, I kept in a backpack, two drinkable energizers, a coke, two cereal bars, I became aware that I might not return because of this madness, and I went out to look for them, from 5300 to 7700 I arrived in 11 hours. There I met other guides and they helped us, they downloaded material and I took care of the human capital, I went down Luis through the walls of the glacier, we were 9 hours. hung, the sherpas of other companies did not help me and used the ropes as their own, without collaborating in the situation, it was something tremendous, I was with a blind man going down and almost dying. I exhausted and without encouragement. It was a terrifying climate, a storm entered and we had to continue descending, after sunset, we finally reached the advanced base. A Chilean passed by and hugged me with encouragement, I told him to call Luis's cook and get him up, hold my backpack that I was broken. When I saw the chef appear, it was a miracle, just without crampons, without equipment or anything, at the base of the glacier my team held me, tied to Luis, we continued down until we reached his main store. Together with Ara, they were my Everest, there I understood the effort to give everything, I vomited all the liquid I had, I was totally exhausted, freaking out for giving everything.
We celebrated those two lives and shared 3 days there to recover, I could eat meat that Luis had in his service and rest. In the following days, Sherpas and guides appeared to congratulate me, there I dimensioned the efforts,
I was happy with the experience, it filled me and left me two new friends, knowing that I can give more to the challenges and raise it in other ways. I really stole two lives from Everest.Your new projects: a) Living in Europe, b) Cross Antarctica to the Pole and everything else you can add to us. a) Living in europe... After being three opportunities in the old continent, and being in contact with my colleagues from France and Switzerland, proposals for work in Slovenia, Switzerland, then in Nepal, after saving my friends, companies offered me to work as a guide in the area, with the 7 thousand peaks and the base camps.This opens up a bit my international market, courses of other levels and a great opportunity for professional development in my activity.
I will be in Bovec Slovenia, installed, from there I will work in a Slovena company where we will make ravines, climbs and exits to the Alps. They will train me, they will teach UIAGM modules of international level, they are 4 years of intense training with new experiences. There is a stage where I must let myself be taken to my training, I was closely linked to the challenges and have neglected my work as a professional. In a moment of tranquility and professional training. b) Antarctic Traverse.
My move to Europe allows me to think about Nordic experiences, I had the occurrence and was training for Antarctica. But seeing the cost and logistics of this challenge, it led me to think about seeing sponsorships in Switzerland and France. From Argentina the conditions are distant, and the mountain industries do not capitalize on these challenges. There is no mentality in encouraging the athlete or the sport. I will take advantage of the move to do everything from another nation. The logistics company in Antarctica asks you for a curricular exam of many Nordic experiences, which I only have few, for the area where I live, being in Slovenia, allows me to think about Norway, carry out these expeditions and add more capacity to undertake Antarctica.
The CV control passes positively, but they ask me for a Nordic expedition at a point in Norway and of course the 75 thousand dollars that logistics costs; these consist of: airplane from Punta Arenas, Chile to Inlet Hercules, where a base camp is built and from there parts to the southernmost end of the planet, the South Pole. It will be 1200 km of ice field. Meals and communication as the team is personal. Then the costs cover permits, internal planes to look for me and security in case of evacuation due to freezing. The average temperatures are -25 during the day and nights -40 being in summer 6 months of days, and winter 6 months of nights. My expedition has seen the summer, since November, it will be two months of 20 km per day, with winds from 80 to 100 km. It is a gradual work and every day I have to build the physical and the mind to achieve a goal. The South Pole. B) Others Challenger I enjoy the exploration, it tests you with all the senses, I feel alive and it fills me fully.I can think of many virgin sites, Peru, Bolivia, the same area of Mendoza near Aconcagua, there are many mountains that because a park was created, their ascents were prohibited. Very beautiful, distant and vertical mountains. Aconcagua would return to the west wall, I enjoy the diversity of its rock and the mixed with the ice, the cold and the afternoon storms that make you think that you disappear among the clouds.
The Cordón del Plata, made a journey of 2 peaks years ago, and last year I was part of them and it turns out to think about going through it completely connecting 5 main peaks, but it would be very good, to show everyone with a drone, the entire virtual tour And don't count it between the lines. I am in search of the drone to be able to achieve these images, download and tell them with words it is boring, whenever I am there I say: "No" here my friends must be, look at this, it is tremendous, beautiful. It is beautiful what you see and the adrenaline it generates. I enjoy. I move alone, I do not find who is handled in the same way in the mountains, it is difficult to think of someone so cold, oblivious to the cities and focusing on the challenge. And that is autonomous, I should not only think of a partner, their relatives are a topic, what is done is not always known and then if something happens, the invitation turned out to be a big problem.So these nonsense (as the earthlings say) I prefer to do them alone. You have to know how to part with families, think about the project and the goals. Of course, at the end of what you are thinking, I want to go deep and hug my dwarves, see my parents, talk with my brothers and meet my friends every day. Do not forget that one is a person.
It consists of three beautiful children, Tomas (9), Agus (4) and Victoria (1) and my partner Cynthia who accompanies me at this stage. Then I have father, mother, sisters (2) and older brother. Me, the black sheep of them all.Tomas (9) and at scale, rose 3 and 4 thousand, in rock climbing courses explains to the users the knots, how they are applied and what they are for, scale 40 meters, in 5th. grade and have fun, ride a bike on the paths under the house in a reserve and make spectacular roasts, is a mini Pablito.Proud and Goretex bib for me. Agus (4) likes to paint, accompanies with his lectern and paintings in all exits, is a fun character. Victoria (1) is all terrain, 4 x 4 V8, dawns saying wow, wow, dogs, horses go crazy and paws everywhere. It is an area. Genie, disheveled and clumsy. I will get gray hair, I have no doubts, but fun.