The summer 2015 ended, I was in Aconcagua with the challenge of 24 hours, accompanying my friends and the foundation waits for life, after an excellent expedition, I returned to my payments the NOA, I could be with my children 5 days, pamper them, pamper myself and Take strength to return to Mendoza where I had to work with my Blue Ice cumpas. With the silver cord.
Plata Mount, I was able to do the work with Luis and Pablito, take their people to the tops and share moments with friends. In those weeks, we stayed and I went into silver and corner to see the area a little, I trained and started shooting for the snowfall,
I returned to tuculand, I took a month to relax and waited for the last snowfall of the summer, waiting for ice on the heights, rest pamper myself with children and go to the challenge 11 x 5500m. After my previous experiences in the area, and knowing the cordon the weather is very unpredictable, the pronos announce a window, but when you are up there, you must know how to make the right decision, or you stick a stick; The prone was very good, I was hoping to cross the entire cord, the snow was just falling, the ice was just coming, everything indicated that it was time to do it and live a dream. I organized the transfers, equipment, food and rest.
Day 1 we go out with my friend Juanjo, we leave for Tafi del Valle, breakfast of champions and we continue to Santa Maria, lunch we buy missing batteries and continue to the area of the round hill, where my challenge must begin. There on the creek of the condor, at 2800m we could leave the canary (my van), that day we organized equipment and left to camp 1 of 3500m, I told him where we camped with our friend Ale, before we lost our lives 4 years ago in our accident. We removed and wrote stories.
Day 2 we advance to camp of 4500m we put the tent near the water, it has a single area on some dunes, between moraine and tall grass. We rest and wait for the good weather. It was different from the forecast I read earlier days. We rested and left the next day, all the walls of the two Lagoons, with lots of ice, it was beautiful!
Day 3 we leave early 4am, we face the base of the west gutter of the two lagoons or the condor, at 4950m this wall starts, there we rest for a while, I showed Juanjo where we camped with the Ale and where we shared those moments; we equip ourselves, harness, crampons and piketas, we begin to weave the channel. after a few hours, we were in the borde From the first lagoon, we hugged each other with Juanjo and we decided: I had to chain the cord to continue forward and return along the road.
I evaluated the wind, the weather seemed to be still, I advanced to the first peaks, connected 4 of them, by their exposed edges of ramps between 400 and 500m at 60 °, slowly connect each top and as I approached the south wall of the pocket, a gust It takes me out of the place, I evaluate the idea of hitting the return and postponing all the tops in another year. Wait for the moment and do it. I hit my return on the edges and I was juanjo in lagoons eating something before leaving, I warned him of waiting and we returned together, I went south by another top and returned by the one we went down.
I was trying to go out with radio from the edges and the tops without any news with anyone, I had a repeater provided by the people of amateur radios and I could never leave; a pity; I was covered by the south side of the pocket to be able to go directly to the city, and the repeater is on a tipilla hill much further north. impossible to communicate;
Then I went further south behind the two lagoons, as if to go to the padlock, there in a cabbage, I was able to go out with alpachiri in National Park, I could enter with them and warn that we were very well and that I did not go out with my repeater to warn and we were returning by the same path, I accompany Juanjo and home together.
Summarize, without being able to connect the whole cord only 4 of them in 4 days of mountain at 5500m, but very happy to share with Juanjo who we were friends together with
Ale, who misses to much and place the new names on the virgin tops, accompany to my friend Griselda with homage of her daddy on the tops, to the Andean club Tucumán, who helped me from my beginnings, the top of my friend and mine to our tribute and the dos lagunas. I will return later to complete what is missing. no hurries.