24hours - Climb Aconcagua top of america
The year ended, my friends who trained during the 2014 period wished to go to Mendoza, to prove themselves in Aconcagua, I spoke with a foundation waiting for life and I could carry out a solidarity event together with them to continue accompanying them with the message.
We define going out on December 28 from Tucumán to spend New Year in the mountains,
I had the plan to climb the same 31 at night and try to climb the 2500m slope of Aconcagua in 24 hours. If I felt strong, I am always in the mountains, I was years ago in this place and in 3 days I could do it without problems. but to find the efforts accumulated on the same day, it was as desperate not to know what would happen.
We arrived at the base with friends, they organized to leave their heights camps before me to acclimatize and try. I stayed two more days because the weather, it was only to enter between January 3 and 4, before it was impossible there were no windows, and the wind up did not let in to the top. After that we had no forecast since it only extends for 5 days. It is a lottery.
In those days I only did social, I met beautiful people, from Mexico, Spain and Chinese, with them I shared pleasant moments, I was able to exchange views and take some mates, I also met Miguel Doura, a great person, who received me in his dome with good mates and great companies, He lent me his camera without knowing me, he gave me communication and hospitality, excellent human. very thankful.
Together with Miguél we adjusted the day of going to the mountain, my friends were upstairs for trying to go to high camp a day before and two of them decided to descend due to personal complications. when going down, I entertained them with some meals and they rested; They helped motivate me and wait for me to leave in the afternoon of January 4.
The day arrived, I went to Miguel Doura in his dome, I checked prono and that same day I could go to the top. We share dinner and coordinate my descent, they impeccable, always attentive to mountaineers, they do an excellent job.
grateful to your attention, for whom we go alone! I continued to anger, but on that road, the terrain was different from last year, no snow and I went further north without seeing the rocks that marked the passage to cholera, I walked 2 hours, I got off a haul and returned to back, which ate my legs, and I decided to go to Berlin at 5940m to sleep for an hour rest and continue all night. It was 2am and I hit one eye, in Berlin there were some Mexican friends and their porter Cristian Gimenez, a great guy, who accompanied me that night and gave me his bagpack to use as insulation. I was able to sleep on it, I was cold, the floor of the refu, was an ice plate, so sleeping was an illusion.
At about 3am, Jorge the Mexican came running, who waved me to continue, I was passed out, I didn't want to go on, and it was just sleep, rest and go on the next day for home, I was already surrendered. But Jorgito insisted that he had to complete that he was going very well and I was so encouraged that I laughed, I said that this old man fucked up! hahaha shared some cookies and hot chocolate with coffee, it was to raise a dead man.
I told him that I would close his group of friends were 4, beautiful Mexican people, and that I would go back accompanying them, with no hope of arriving. I pass the pachorra and we leave.
Jorge told me that my friends told him to leave that same day to the top, and that we were in the caves at 6700m, so it was the hope of this beautiful meeting. then we went from berlin to caves where the dawn began, we left together to the top and I could not believe it was the morning of the same day and had until 18 to complete my 24 hours. I was pushed by the breaths of Jorge hermosillo and his companions, we shared the top and stirred me to go down to the base quickly.
That was where I took this challenge seriously, I went down until I ran into more than 100 people in the gutter, it was difficult to run or hurry, very complicated with so many people. I made social and I met my friends, who were already on the beginning of the gutter, we talked, I suggested equipment, I adjusted water and they were excellent, strong, so they had to continue to the top.
We greeted each other and continued my challenge.
Everyone was telling me to get in the great haul, but it was 1000m of rocks, it was for me to eat my legs, I looked twice and in the third I sent straight before stone stopped, I threw myself and walked to the nest of condors, where I passed and I thanked patrol for their collaboration and concern.
I dismounted a tent from my friends who left earlier days and continued to Plaza de Mules, there it was 15.20pm and I was completing my 24hs. When I got a great satisfaction, Cristian el Porter's son came out to meet me, we hugged each other and shared some mates, I sat in the kitchen, and I just wanted to cry.
knowing that I climbed this giant without thinking that I could, without knowing what would come or how to find myself with so much effort. I was able to get into the first 12 of climbing Aconcagua in less than 20hs, completing it in 18hs considering my loss of 2hs, and sleeping another 2hs, where I loaded sleeping bag, crampons, clothes and liquid food with heater thinking that something would happen to me .
I did not use porter to help me, I just went out to power up and with a purpose, it was to help the foundation wait for life, I had three princes who encouraged me, Eluney, robertito and zairita. they suffered leukemia, one of these dwarves needed a new heart, and I only felt mine beat and beat, at every step in the last I remembered Robertito all the time, zaira who lives in controls with more than 4 years and his life is very fragile, they gave me the encouragement to move forward, to know that I have my organs and it was only a matter of walking, I could give myself encouragement with their forces, motivating me to be able to! move forward one foot over the other and complete, arrive for them and my friends who accompanied to advance.
At night, the mountain rested, cold from the west very cold! I took parka, polar and feathers with me, I only walked to parka and polar, I had to wear feathers because it was early morning and it was frozen. - 15 ° C
to my children, flia and friends, who accompanied us, the Mexicans and Cristian with their son, to Miguel Doura, who gave me the communication to the rescue patrol, to the David who is the boss, and all the collaboration that they knew how to give me .
My sponsors who dress me with the best clothes, Sox with their double socks, Lesommet with Ansilta, La Roche - Posay, who take care of my skin with Anthelios XL protection. and my Optitech lenses from SolMar optics, in Tucumán. Thank you very much to all of them.